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Peak Mountain 3

Cohen's Crown

FA M. Cohen, H. Carter
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is an old school classic, featuring some of the steepest 5.9 gear climbing around. Due to the traversing nature of the bottom half of the route, careful placements and extension are required to keep rope drag reasonable. Or it can be broken into two short pitches.

Start on the left side of the cave and work left to a pin below the grey flake where the steepness begins. You can get an optional belay here for rope drag purposes. Continue up the steep, juggy climbing plugging cams and clipping a modern pin before the exciting finishing move.

Build a gear anchor at the top of the climb, walk off to a gully on the climber's right side of the formation.

Location

Begin on the left side of the cave.

Protection

A standard rack with many slings if doing this as a single pitch.