Gills Nose Direct

The more straight up variation of Gills Nose, this is one of the finest routes on the bluff. Climb the first half of the route and continue straight up instead of left to a jug for Gills Nose regular. Some people use the arete, some don't. The sequence for the top is always seeming to change. Gain the ledge and then a few trivial moves for the top out.

Arete right of Gills Crack.

One or two finger cams halfway up, yep that's it. There's a debate as to if this route is X or R but I don't think anyone wants to settle that debate with experience. This has been led, twice, maybe more.