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Peak Mountain 3

Crazies

FA Ed Beacham, 1972
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A long meandering flake that overhangs a slab with thin features. Crack starts fist size and grows to off width by the top. Liebacks and full body jams to rest.

Although rated at 5.7 by Watts, feels significantly more difficult than routes with similar features and ratings such as Sky Chimney or Spiderman.

Location

Base of Koala rock, just left of Buffalo Power. Shares the same start as Round Here. Left of two parallel cracks.

After topping out, continue up and right over 4th class terrain to a two-bolt anchor. You may wish to extend the belay back down to the top of the route if you're bringing up a second. Otherwise, rappel South Gully on the opposite side.

Protection

Takes large gear to 5-6", but a couple of #4 C4s can help. 1/4" bolt on flake indicated in Watts topo has been chopped. Bolted anchors.