- Edit (TBD)
Description
Cobra is Quarter of a Man's big, bad brother. This route will get you pumped.
Start up some soft, hollow rock moving into a right-facing flake that takes tips-sized gear (smaller than yellow alien) (11ish). Rock onto a sloping ledge and clip a bolt, then continue with more balancy, bouldery moves (11+ish) into the bottom of the corner, where the rock is pretty crappy. A med-large nut or two can be placed above the bolt in a finger slot, but please don't fall here. The rock to this point is less than stellar.
Place a #1 and bust up the left facing corner with .5s that go into steep .75s. Eventually the .75s widen into very sustained black metolius/#2 friends for the next 90+ feet past multiple bulges with very few rests. Catch your breath, plug a piece with a quickdraw in the roof, and then bust out the roof on .75s and #2 friends to a cruxy lip encounter that will be quite strenuous for all but the very small-handed. It's not over until you are clipping the chains.
This route is definitely harder than Quarter of a Man. 12-/12 seems fair.
Watch out for a few loose blocks at the topout.
This route will be hard if you can't get thin hands in #2 friends. I could barely get thin hands in the crack.
We lowered with an 80m rope with a few meters left over.
CAUTION: The left side of the corner seems to be formed by a hollow plate 1-2" thick on the outside. Either place your cams deeper than usual or place gear more frequently. The rock on the left sounds pretty hollow until about 2/3 of the way up the route! I did not fall so I cannot vouch for the integrity of the gear.
Location
Find the large, left-facing corner capped by a roof a couple hundred feet to the right of Stealth Belly and Lizard Lust. There is a bolt 25-30 feet up after a right-facing tips flake
Protection
What I would bring next time:
1 blue alien
2 green alien/.3
1 quickdraw
A couple med/large nuts
2 .5
3-5 .75
As many #2 friends as you can find (6-8 would be adequate...I only had 3)
2-3 #1 (#1s can be squeezed in a few spots up higher, but are mostly overcammed)
A #4 could potentially be used in a wide section 2/3 of the way up to supplement small gear.
Bring some chains, quicklinks, cord or webbing to replace the old tat on the anchors.
Routes in Reptilian Wall
- 14Cobra5.12-Trad