- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route has a little bit of everything. Steep movement with big reaches gets you onto a slab (from the ground, the slab looks like a ledge, but there is no ledge, just a steeply sloping ramp). Delicately traverse left across the slab to gain the upper face with powerful moves back right and to the anchors. Fear not the fall from the upper section; the route is steeper than it appears and the slab slopes away below the face, making contact during a fall unlikely. A large fall will clear the slab, and a tight belay at the crux is possible since the hard moves are below the bolt. You will see what I mean when you get up there, its a bit of an optical illusion from the ground. This route is steep.
Location
First route at the break in the crag where you go around a corner. approach the climb from the left across the dirt ramp, taking care to use rocks as stepping stones when possible. You can easily re-arrange the stones from the ground and clean things off if need be before you do the traverse. Please be careful not to accelerate erosion as much as possible, this goes for lowering off too.
Protection
10 bolts
Routes in East of Eden
- 17The Pearl5.12-Sport