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Peak Mountain 3

Unknown 5.10+

FA Duane Anderton
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A somewhat-intimidating-looking jug haul on broken-appearing rock that climbs through two roofs.

Begin either from a comfortable belay position at the base of the cliff or from an okay ledge about 20 feet up (the ledge can be reached by scrambling past two bolts on 3rd or 4th class terrain, or by walking left, up a scree slope, and approaching from the left).

Once at the ledge, clip a bolt that is about chest-high on the arete to the right. Find pockets and sidepulls and continue up and over the first roof.

Take the left of the two bolt lines that are before you, figure out a blank-looking section and then climb up to and through the larger roof. If you aren't using jugs, you're not looking hard enough.

Location

Starts to the left of a rounded buttress with two bolted routes (

Unknown 5.9

and

Unknown 5.10a

).

Shares the start with

Unknown 5.10c

Approach as to

Hard Rock Wall

, when you get to the top of the slope, head left to new

Hard Rock West

area. Continue west past the terraced area to newer climbs.

Protection

About 9 bolts, or 11 bolts counting the two bolts on the lower-angled terrain. (Forgot to count them, so don't rely on this for the precise count.)