- Edit (TBD)
Description
We top roped this route from gear high in the corner at the end of
Diagonal Finger Crack
. We tensioned right to clip the top bolt. After an initial move on the arete, climb on the right side using the arete and some rotten flakes (first bolt is left of the arete), then switch to the left side. Climb past a big horizontal crack (gear) to the second bolt where there is a thin 5.9 move.
After toproping this I thought maybe I could lead it despite the S rating. The hard moves are about even with the first bolt but on the other side of the arete. It would be close to a ground fall as you get to the horizontal crack. The first move is pretty hard, and you could fall down to the right off of the start ledge, but there is gear, maybe hard to place, left of the start at the top of the inside corner.
Protection
2 bolts, small gear for start, big cam(?) between 1st and 2nd bolt.