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Peak Mountain 3

Big Chimney

FA 1942 Fritz Wiessner, Ann Gross, and Ed Gross
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is a great adventure. It's good for hot, crowded days when you want to cool off and/or experience some solitude. Not another living soul other than your partner will be visible once you're in the bowels of the chimney/cave on the second pitch.

P1 5.6: Up the chimney with no protection until you get about 30 ft up. At the top, swing around the corner and up onto a ledge. Enter the cave and set an anchor.

P2 5.6: Go deeper into the cave until a finger crack appears. Chimney up beside the crack. At the top, start working your way back towards the opening of the chimney. Re-enter the light. From here, it is possible to move up and climber's left onto the face and belay from the top of the second pitch of Miss Bailey (V1). Or continue straight up above the chimney exit to a large ledge with a tree (V2).

P3 (V1) 5.6+: Finish on the last pitch of Miss Bailey.

P3 (V2) 5.4: From the tree, climb upwards on blocky terrain to the top. Watch out for loose blocks.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack