- Edit (TBD)
Description
I'm adding this to help people separate the original (actual)
Anarchy in the UK
and this variation, which I know is also commonly climbed (there are references to a left start on some comments to
AITUK
, and a video link there shows the climber on this variation). It avoids the lower crux on
AITUK
. To my eye, the variation is the more direct, obvious climbing line (and avoids a slightly contrived but excellent traverse), but it's distinctly left of
AITUK
bolts. I led with the 2nd bolt on
AITUK
pre-clipped (you could clip on lead, just need to reach); others use some
Power Trip
bolts. The picture shows the general line of the handholds of the variation with red dots and original in blue dots; I put each color dot at the merge hold. The ropes are hanging on
Power Trip
(left rope) and
AITUK
(right rope) for more reference. Note the red dot holds are not the standard holds for Power Trip, but it would be possible to climb the start of Power Trip into the merge hold or thereabouts. This variation and the original line are of similar quality to me, although if you can do it, you'll want to do original. Variation is another, easier warm-up option for those doing harder lines.
Location
It climbs between
Power Trip
and
Anarchy in the UK
until it merges with
AITUK
. It is possible to clip the first bolts on either until the merge.
Protection
If you use the AITUK bolts, I believe you should skip the third (if I counted right) bolt, I believe many skip that bolt even when doing AITUK. The bolt to skip does not have a draw on it in the photo, it's down and right from the highest shown draw. I believe it is safely done this way and the merge hold to clip the highest shown draw is good, but make sure you're comfortable with the potential falls and have an attentive belay. If you use the Power Trip bolts, you may need to actually climb the start of Power Trip (which is different from this variation) or stick clip an upper bolt, I have not led using PT bolts so not sure how feasible leading is.
Routes in Anarchy Wall
- 3Anarchy in the UK - Left variation start5.12aSport