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Peak Mountain 3

Steel Crazy

FA Mark Colby, Scott Ayers, 1996
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Steel Crazy starts up the face near the left end of the Fortress. Look for the well-bolted line just left of a large corner.

Pitch 1: Pumpy climbing up and over small overhang (crux?)to easier climbing above. Continue up easier terrain, slightly runout to sloping ledge. Scary, thin moves up steep face past more bolts lead to small sea of chickenheads. Follow these to two-bolt belay on huge ledge.

Pitch 2: From the belay ledge, Steel Crazy follows the right of two bolted lines. Fun 5.9 climbing on well-bolted (over-bolted?) face straight up for 100 feet. More chickenheads lead to another two bolt belay.

Pitch 3: Continue straight up over sustained climbing to chickenheaded face. Easier climbing leads to 40 foot runout onto sloping ledge just left of large chimney. At the shrubs, step across chimney (scary) to two bolt belay on right hand side.

Pitch 4: Easy climbing for 60' to belay on top.

Descent: If you are unfortunate enough to have return to your gear at the base, you can double-rope rap the route (not recommended).

Otherwise, walk off the backside of the Fortress, following the long narrow ridge that leads north back toward the saddleRequires potentially scary scrambling.

Protection

60 m rope, 20 quickdraws, biners and webbing for belay stations.