- Edit (TBD)
Fuhrer "Direct" Variation
Description
The regular Fuhrer is rated 5.8 (5.5R) and, according to Page 210 (photo) of 2nd Ed. of Adirondack Rock, starts (along with all other routes) on a tree ledge reached by a serious scramble to the right of the "Jungle Groove".
Having no knowledge of this (previous guidebooks were a bit obscure on this cliff) we took a rather committing variation, at least for this modest climber. I don't remember even the year, but we were still using the Mellor's book for "guidance"
START: at the left side of the base of the "Jungle Groove"
P1 - Step left onto the face of the buttress and climb it in a very slightly left-leaning diagonal to a sandy ledge with a tree for belay. 80-100 ft 5.9+ (maybe more + ?) Limited pro...especially for the last 20-25 ft...R/X ? [ I had climbed this pitch in winter with Todd Morgan leading; it's MUCH harder in summer! In all the years I've been climbing, this was about the only time I nearly vomited with stress relief when I got to the tree! ]
P2 - Thrash through a tree or two and step onto the slab and intercept the Fuhrer at about the location of the "dogleg" on P1 shown in the photo on Page 210 of 2nd Ed Adk Rock. Continue to the trees. 5.5
We then tried to continue on the Fuhrer ("Leader" in German, if my high school German hasn't escaped me) but were "thwarted" by the lack of pro on either of the two variations shown on Page 210.
Location
Variation left of the "Jungle Groove"
Protection
Not much..Std rack and bring nuts. You might even find a piton along the way!
Routes in Emperor Slab
- 1Fuhrer "Direct" Variation5.9+Trad