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Peak Mountain 3

Middle S Crack

FA Dave Ohlson, John Lonne, 4/76
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UPDATED 

Description

The opening moves are a semi tough series of laybacks and pinches and advanced free climbing moves to gain the deep flaring slot in the middle of the pitch. Rest up in here and get ready for the crux top out. Keeping your last pro out of your hand slot is probably recommended. Interesting and sorta sequential moves will have you on the summit. Top anchor is a few pieces in the 1" to 2 1/2" range.

To top rope, bring a long extendo runner or something similar to extend to the lip.

I'd go a full three stars out of five on this rig. It is better than "good", but not "great".

Location

The curving "S" shaped crack in the middle of the formation. The start is on some thin layaways just to the right of a cantaloupe shaped hole at groin level.

Descend to climbers left, over the back and down.

Protection

Small wires in suspect rock down low, followed by some good cams in the .5" to 3" range.