- Edit (TBD)
Description
Start on first 3 bolts of "
Over the Hillary
". Cross left into the hand crack traverse, up the mini-dihedral to a log. Stay on a rock traverse left to a slanting crack in a mini-headwall. This is where I would set a belay next time (you might even be able to reach ground on other side of 'hump'). It would be pretty comfortable staying on rock, and you would have good crack for anchor.
Pitch two from there would go up diagonally. Make 'bouldery' move (crux) into a horizontal squeeze, then voilà, the final 5.6 hand crack mantel to the top of this cool buttress. There is a good anchor building opportunity on top.
Walk off right and follow a ridge west a little, then downclimb south.
I cleared ledges of choss, but just a few more ascents, and it would be worth of 4 stars... to a trad climber.
Location
On the Upper Midlife Wall, start up "
Over the Hillary
;
Protection
A standard rack to 4", and RPs are helpful.
Routes in Upper Midlife Wall
- 2Little Richard Sporter5.8Trad