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Peak Mountain 3

The Bat

FA (Complete route) Bob and Yvonne Gaines, September 1987
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Start on the Vampire. From the the top of the Bat Crack, face climb down and right (5.10c) to a good ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.

Don't climb the dihedral directly above (The Crucifix), but traverse around the corner to the left and lieback a steep, thin crack that peters out into an old bolt ladder. Clip the first bolt on the ladder, then face climb out right and up (5.11 PG/R) to a bolt (shared with The Crucifix). Climb up to another bolt, then traverse left and move up (5.11c) to a hanging belay at a 2-bolt anchor.

Tenuous (5.11-) friction diagonally up and left up a ramp past 2 bolts (the first bolt is shared with Field of Dreams which climbs straight up from the first bolt) takes you to a left-facing flake (on the Vampire route). Climb about 15 feet up the corner, then bust out right, face climbing up and right for about 30 feet up to a belay stance at a tiny ledge.

The last pitch climbs directly up the slab and intersects Upper Royal's Arch where it climbs over the giant arch at a flake (5.8), then finishes up a steep corner through the headwall (5.7).

First Ascent History

FA to top of bolt ladder: (5.7, A2) Don Wilson, Jerry Galwas, and Chuck Wilts, 1960 (they pendulumed right off the headwall from the top of the bolt ladder)

FFA of dihedral to bolt ladder: Tobin Sorenson, 1973

FFA of bolt ladder (on Toprope, 5.12a): Matt Bebe and Ian Katz, July 2000.

Protection

Double rack from thin to 2.5 inches, plus one 3-inch CD (#3 camalot)