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Ischemic Pain / Body Buster
Description
Ischemic Pain: Pain due to inadequate blood supply to an organ or part of the body - especially the heart. The two names reflect the route equipper and the FA.
The route takes the crazy NW Arete of Lost Arrow. Clip the first bolt and perform a really crimpy, bouldery sequence to establish on a better hold and a second clip. Continue up run out terrain past a poorly located (ie dangerous) bolt. This is the fourth clip which would be much better located down and left by 10-15 feet, but it can easily be back cleaned once the next clip is made. Higher up a green or yellow Alien provides crucial pro to protect a huge run out. A final sequence of crazy fin-pinching and liebacking leads to a thin top out. Great route!
Protection
10 draws and a small cam or two. A 60m rope gets you down but just barely! A 70 would make this much easier logistically.
Routes in Lost Arrow Spire
- 3Ischemic Pain / Body Buster5.12aSport