- Edit (TBD)
Description
40' of easy climbing protected by gear up a ramp leads to a lieback flake and then a roof. Stay right and pull over the roof, then make an airy leftward traverse on small feet above the roof on its lip to the first bolt (at about 50').
The book appears to show the route traversing left
below
the roof before going over, but there's some loose rock this way. The rightward variation keeps the grade of 5.7-8 seems safer, albeit more heady.
From here, head up on a mildly featured slab and plug a large piece (BD #4 or 5) and head up to the last two bolts before the chains.
Fun face climbing route, but not great for a beginner or new trad leader; it's kinda heady I thought.
Location
Look for the upward left-trending ramp just left of the shady trees that lead to the far side of Hobo Gulch (where
Vulgar Goatmen,
etc. are located). It starts in the open, not in the trees.
Not to be confused with the chimney route in the trees, which is Mulligan Stew (5.7).
Protection
Singles BD #0.3- 2 or 3, plus a #5. Bolted anchor with chains.
Routes in Hobo Gulch
- 13Slowpoke5.7Trad