We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Incognito Buttress

FA Zeilman, Kries - September, 2018
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Incognito Buttress is located on the same formation as Reticent Wall; a relatively high quality chunk of stone at least a thousand feet below the Southwest Ridge of Symmetry Spire, which faces more to the east, and is mostly hidden when viewed from the valley floor. This route is of similar difficulty and quality as Reticent Wall, and shares the same rappel route (3 raps, double ropes) back to the base of the formation. Given the short approach compared to other objectives in the range, a motivated party could climb both lines in a day for a combined 8 pitches of fun and fairly moderate 5.7-5.8+ terrain, some of which is sparsely protected at times.

Start on the right edge of a massive roof system approximately 70m right of P1 on Reticent Wall (see photos).

P1- This is perhaps the best and highest quality pitch on the route. Climb a small, broken right-facing corner in a band of light colored rock then venture onto 5.7 face climbing in dark rock. Move up and right onto the face, clip a bolt [more of a trail blaze and warm fuzzy piece of pro before launching upwards] and continue up excellent face climbing above. Eventually trend back left to belay at a semi-hanging stance on the lip of the giant roof system, beneath a prominent corner. Approx 30m.

P2- Another fun pitch. Stem and layback up the corner through some 5.8+ moves. Near the roof above, transition left, switching cracks to gain a left-facing corner (5.8+). Climb up this corner to a bolt out right and make an A0 move grabbing the draw (or a couple of difficult thin face moves that weren't freed) to reach blocky, easy terrain. Move up and right to belay on a large sloping ledge. Approx 40m.

P3- Stay on good, clean rock out left of a vegetated weakness. Near some overlaps above, tie off a marginal pin and make a delicate foot traverse hard left to a flared seam on the face. Continue up 5.7R climbing in the flared dihedral (cool, well featured stemming up knobs and edges on good rock). Move up and left to belay at a fixed pin on the upper left edge of another massive roof with dark streaks. Approx 55m.

P4- Get a high piece off the belay then venture left into fairly nondescript 5.7 slabby terrain with sparse pro. The general path is marked with a fixed pin somewhere mid-pitch. Stay beneath all of the prominent roofs overhead, eventually intersecting the final 5.8 corner on Reticent Wall. Belay at a rap station on a ledge near a dead tree - full 60m. This tree marks the beginning of 3 double rope rappels back to the base of the formation.

Either rap back to the base of the wall (recommended) or continue to the top of Symmetry Spire (much 4th class wandering which most parties will likely choose to do unroped in approach shoes)

Location

Follow the same approach beta as Reticent Wall: Roughly halfway up the Symmetry Couloir approach drainage, traverse above the ever-lingering snow patch (leave packs here if going to the summit) and follow a prominent 3rd and 4th class drainage/gully for several hundred feet into a tucked away side-canyon. When it starts to level out once again, move up and left to reach a ledge system at the base of the climb. Incognito Buttress starts on broken 3rd class ledges approximately 70m right of P1 on Reticent Wall (see approach photos for this route as well).

An ice axe will be needed in early season to navigate steep snow on the approach and descent. Later season may be better for this particular climb when it is possible to walk along the moat in the top of the snow patch, and avoid any potentially wet conditions in the approach gully.

Protection

Doubles from blue tcu to #2 camalot. (1)#3, stoppers (mostly small to medium) - 0, 00, 000 C3 sizes helpful - #4 and RPs could be useful. Two ropes if rapping.