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Peak Mountain 3

West Face AKA Cold Feelings

FA Claire Carren & George Brasieck, 7/22/77, pitch 1: John Auld, EVD, 2009, pitch 2/3: Todd Bol, EVD, 2011?
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is one of only two on the West face. Dan Hare confirmed that (from Gillett's book there was some speculation) the upper corner has been climbed at 5.10+

P1: 5.6, head straight up cracks and jugs for 60 feet to fixed pro. It is surprisingly exposed.

P2: 5.6, head straight up the same crack system with a little laybacking. Step onto the slab and follow a thinnish crack directly through a small bulge staying left of a prominent tree. Then gain a ledge with fixed pro. 80 feet.

P3: 5.7, head left from the belay to gain the prominent crack system. Follow this until it begins to arc right and peters out. Here, step left and gain another thin crack below a small tree. Follow this crack to a ledge below the upper most headwall and take a broken, right-facing corner to the top. Now you are on the summit of The Watchtower. Walk off to the east. You may have Cold Feelings on this route if 5.7 is your limit. 130 feet.

Location

This is the furthest right climb on the wall.

Protection

Take RPs and small cams and maybe doubles up to #1 Camalot.


Routes in The Watchtower