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Peak Mountain 3

Taildragger

FA R. Suggett & A. Ross
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A shady line in a protected slot, this crack climbs well and takes gear easily.

Location

Best way in is from the Shangri La campsite trail (see approach trail map).  Follow this SW to the edge.  Here note the cairn atop the TSA Tower and the three cracks below on the towers east face.  Now turn right or north a few hundred feet to a cairned and easy down chute to the stable talus below.  There is a fixed line to aid your decent and guide the way.   Head south along the wall to the gap between the wall and TSA Tower where the three cracks are obvious.  Taildragger is the middle crack.  OR, with extreme caution and a belay, jump from the trail edge to the tower and use the anchor atop to rap to the lines base.

Protection

Bring mix of sizes but mostly from BD #1s - #2s X 2 and #3s X 3, one #4, and one #5. You can build a good anchor at the top edge using #3s or top out and find a chain anchor in the center of the TSA Tower and in your same crack.