- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a short 5.9 trad route on the far right (east) end of the Far Side crag and is a nice little trad warmup that allows you to toprope "Buddha Boy" (5.10c pg13) after leading this one to the anchors, or vice versa of course. It's a worthwhile climb, and is actually quite enjoyable.
Start the climb by surmounting a ledge a few feet above head height that puts you in a corner beneath a bulge. Jam and stem through the bulge (fun moves), then jam the rest of the way to the anchor.
Location
Look for a set of anchors that are the farthest to the right (east) of the north side of Pratt's Crack Canyon. They are located near the top of the crag, between two parallel cracks, and to the left of a fairly sizable bush/tree. See photo for topo.
Protection
Light rack. Single set of cams from BD .5 to #3 (or equivalent) should do the trick. Nuts might be useful to some. Two Mussy hooks at the bolted anchors.
Routes in Bavarian Wall and The Far Side
- 13Hanabata5.9Trad