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Peak Mountain 3

Risky Business

FA Greg Meyers, Mike Tupper 1985
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Risky Business climbs some of the best rock in Red Rock. It is an EXTREMELY good climb and shouldn't be missed by anyone leading at the grade. However it is a bit runout so make sure you're very solid at the grade.

The route starts approximately 50ft to the left of Dark Shadows on a small "island" in the creek.

Pitch 1- start up a short left facing flake, then climb the face above aiming for the first of 2 bolts. After clipping the 2nd bolt climb up and slightly right to gain a shallow right facing corner. Climb this corner until it's possible to traverse left to reach the obvious ledge and anchor(5.10-, R-).

Pitch 2- climb the obvious corner up and slightly left of the belay; there is a bolt near the bottom of the corner. At the top of the corner follow thin, discontinous cracks aiming for another bolt. Face climb past this bolt, until you find more discontiuous cracks, follow these to the anchor, which is directly below a large bulge(5.10, R-).

Pitch 3- climb straight left, then up to reach a bolt. After clipping the bolt climb straight up until it is possible to traverse right to gain a thin crack system (the traverse is about 20ft). Climb up the thin cracks until it is possible to traverse back left towards a fixed pin in the bottom of a shallow right facing corner. Climb the corner to reach a hanging belay(5.10+, R).

Pitch 4- Climb straight up, off the belay past 4 bolts. After clipping the 4th bolt traverse right to a white ledge/large stance and the final anchor.

To descend rappel with 2 ropes.

Protection

Rack: 1 set of nuts extras in the small size's, 1 set of cams Green alien to #1 camalot.