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Peak Mountain 3

Lions and Christians

FA Rich Magill
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UPDATED 

Description

This is a short warmup in the middle of the giant tower on the right side of the arena. The route is about 55 feet - it looks miniscule since it only goes a third of the way up the tower. A second pitch may be added in the future. Above the anchors, the wall goes quite blank - the potential second pitch here will be sick thin. The route starts off slightly overhanging on good rock with big holds.The first clip is a little spooky but reasonable - bring a stick clip if you want to avoid being scared.

3 or 4 bolts of nice 10a climbing lead to a reachy 10+ section that diagonals up and left, culiminating with some of the most incredible chickenhead grips I've ever pulled on.

From here, begin an 11a sequence (maybe a shade harder than most 11a moves) on small holds involving some high stepping and good footwork.

It is really fun - if it were only longer, I would have said 3 stars.

Protection

7 bolts to a coldshut anchor.


Routes in East Side


  1. 1
    Lions and Christians
    5.11a
    Sport