Pack Rat Peak (AKA Cider Jug)

A classic Conn summit with a little bit of everything: splitter crack climbing, chimneying, and an exciting exposed crux move to the summit. This route would be perfect if not for the extensive bushwhacking required to reach the base and a large tree that has grown in the middle of the route. Could be done as a single pitch with some rope drag near the top, but is also easily broken into two shorter pitches. I found it ideal to set up the first belay in a sheltered alcove above the crack climbing and just below the chimney. The original route goes to the right side of the summit block and finishes with face climbing, avoiding a tempting crack on the left part of the summit block. Make sure to bring two ropes for the rappel, which does not retrace the route. 

GPS: 43.880554, -103.523696Approach the main Elkhorn Mountain Cirque. See the Pack Rat Peak approach trail on map. As you crest the ridge and see the cirque on your left and a string of formations on your right heading to the SW, head off to the right and begin a strenuous bushwack over a maze of deadfall. Stay to the left (SE) of the various formations on Elkhorn Ridge until you get to the last one. This route is on the Southwest face and starts in the notch between the main Pack Rat Peak formation and Green Back, the smaller individual spire which sits between Pack Rat Peak and Yellow Back. Scramble up into the notch and locate a splitter crack on the right which heads straight up toward a large tree growing out of the formation. 

Standard rack to #3 with doubles of larger pieces. Rappel requires two ropes and is off a single modern bolt backed up with a fixed nut. May want to bring some new cord/webbing.