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Peak Mountain 3

Flycatcher Buttress

FA Steve Marts, Don McPherson, and King McPherson 1965 FFA (onsite free solo) Bryan Burdo 1990
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

East face routes on the other spires in the LB group seem to get good traffic, but I could not find much about Flycatcher. While the climb is listed in the SuperTopo book with a topo, I would suggest preparing for an adventure.

P1 - Straightforward with not super easy gear. Mostly straight up the features

P2 - Hard right for a full rope length. Your pick of a few ledges at the end

P3 - Easy climbing to right side of big ledge

P4 - Move right to awkward step up into slabby corner. End near the chimney and build the best anchor possible in the not great rock

P5 - Choose your adventure. Found a nice low angle hand crack leading to big ledge below crux pitch

P6 - Aim for left crack in double crack feature

P7 - Mostly straight up to nice ledge

P8 - traverse left to nice looking wider crack with exposure

P9 - Nice cracks to step left with weird move to access hand crack

P10 - Easy to summit

The climbing is not sustained, but I would recommend both the leader and follower be solid on 5.8 terrain.

Location

You can approach from the hairpin as if you were heading to the start of DEB on SEWS. Stay right of the gully dividing the two spires and scramble to a flat ledge at the start of Flycatcher.

Descent: Rap Chockstone Route with 60m or the bolted rap anchors with a 70m.

Protection

Gear to #3 with a single #4. SuperTopo suggests an optional #5, but we did not bring it. Maybe for the wide crack option on P9