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Peak Mountain 3

The Bolt

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Description

This route climbs the far left hand edge of the gecko wall. We discovered a very recently placed (rotohammer tailings looked quite fresh) and very unnecessary bolt (seriously, whos out here putting bolts in next to good gear placements in an otherwise pristine canyon?) on the second pitch. Not sure what route they took other than the second pitch, this is how we climbed it. P1- straight up a nice splitter hand crack to a big ledge in a bunch of chocolate varnish. 5.7 P2- Head up and left through some really cool features into a right facing corner, continue up and cut left to a massive ledge below many cracks. 5.9 P3- Head up the tallest crack in the middle of the wall to a good belay ledge. 5.9 P4- Up a seem on the face for about 80 ft, then cut left at a seem to a shallow stance below a short hand crack. 5.9 P5- Up the short crack, then cut left accross varnish to another crack, straight up this to a poor stance below a hand crack roof. 5.8 P6- Up the hand crack bulge then stretch your rope to the top out ledge 5.8

Decent- Go up one of the many easy cracks to access the large basin above, from here climb siren's arete or head up and right to link into the walk-off

Location

far left hand edge of gecko wall

Protection

doubles to 3 single 4