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Peak Mountain 3

Smear Campaign

FA Aug., 2002 Mark Meschinelli, Dominic Eisinger
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A hard boulder move off the ground (5.10, shorter climbers just might find this the crux) reaches the bolt and the crack. Traverse the crack out right (good gear and jams), then step easily up onto the face below the line of bolts. Now the climbing changes dramatically-negotiate the steep slab using rounded/slopey holds that are atypical for Poke-O. The line wanders a bit, and the easiest line is not a straight path between bolts. The guide describes the grade as "still debated between 10b and hard 11". I'll split the difference-definitely not 10b, but choose the right line and no way is it hard 11...

Location

Walk right from the Pilgrim Wall to an arete with a bolt about 12' up. There is an obvious crack here that angles up and right.

Protection

Bolts and Camelots .5 thru #3 for the crack.


Routes in Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face


  1. 71
    Smear Campaign
    5.11a
    Trad