- Edit (TBD)
Description
The route follows the flared chimney to its end, then out over small roof continuing to a small ledge. Continue directly up on juggy holds to top out.
This route appears to be seldom climbed and has some vegetation / briars in the lower part of the chimney. Since the chimney flares out, it requires some unique chimney techniques. Either face of the chimney can also be climbed, with right face probably adding to the grade. The top of the route can also done over a bulge on thinner holds for a much higher grade crux. This bulge is easily avoided by moving slightly left and thereby keeps a different line from Buzzard's Breath while maintaining the 5.7 grade.
Location
About 10' left of Buzzard's Breath at the base of a flared chimney. Base of the route is right along the hiking trail, so be thoughtful on start and belaying.
Belayer must NOT stand in the trail to belay!
There is space for the belayer on the opposite side of trail from the route. This is a high usage area for BOTH climbers, hikers and runners, please keep the trail clear for anyone using the trail.
Protection
Rim anchors. There are three rim anchors above Buzzard's Breath, suggest using two bolts to climber's left. Watch for small swing to right if one falls on this route.