- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a great, continuous, 80' pitch that is not for the meek. It originally had five bolts (you do the math for the runouts), but an additional bolt at the bottom was added in the summer of 2001 to reduce the groundfall potential. This route was established in the old-school style: on-sight, from the ground, with the protection drilled from free stances. As such, it is too run-out for your typical sportclimb, but it's got big bolts that were drilled with a Hilti.
Even though it's steep, it's a highly featured less-than-vertical slab, so falling is discouraged. With that in mind, it's got lots of holds and occasional rests. If you're comfortable on 5.10 sport routes, you'll probably enjoy this, but if you're just breaking into the grade get someone else to string it up and run it on a toprope.
Protection
Six bolts to a two bolt anchor with chains.
As of 6/16, per
Lisa Montgomery
: the 6 lead & 2 anchor bolts were updated with 1/2 inch stainless 5-piece Powers bolts.
Routes in The Red Slab
- 7Bumblies For Breakfast5.10aSport