Cape Canaveral

Ah, another Superstition "must-do" after you think you have mastered the gentle climbing style often required on many Superstition routes.   As the guidebook says, "Hopefully the name of this route will give you a clue to the nature of the rock."

The first 150 feet (pitch 1 and 2) are class 3-4 so these go quickly.  The rock is good to questionable depending on your path.  Pitch three is a romp through shrubs and the occasional very thorny and sharp hackberry like tree/bush.  Never difficult and somewhat enjoyable, blood loss may occur depending on your path, 5.4 and 115 feet.  This pitch ends in a nice alcove below a rotten chimney, lots of rock fall is evident.  Pitch 4 is the mental crux.  What this pitch lacks in difficulty makes up for with a healthy dose of sketchy rock and imaginary protection.  From alcove climb up and aim towards a fairly obvious ledge, find a piton and begin the 40-foot traverse north to the ridge and boulder-like belay area.  Lots of large, very loose rock is at the belay. 5.6, 90 feet.  Pitch 5 and 6 should be linked.  Traverse left from the shakey belay on a semi-decent ledge to gain the long discontinuous crack(s).  Follow cracks on decent rock, the occasional bush to the final tree growing out of a cool mini-cave.  Chimney over the tree and chockstone to the colorful summit. 5.8, 220 feet.

We found the one bolt on the route sheared off the wall at the top of pitch three.  Helmets are highly recommended.

To avoid a lengthy walk off over to Siphon Draw...on the hike into Suction Gulley take note of the gulley system in the back of the draw.  One can downclimb into the system, sling some chockstones and do three rappels back to your packs.  The third rappel is off a bolt and piton on a large ledge on rappellers left, use a 70-meter rope.

The start of the route is just to the right/east of the start of Grandfather Hobgoblin.  From the ground, you can see the first 4 pitches although the bush filled pitch 3 is somewhat obscured. From the summit back to your pack via the rappel route is less than 1 hour, the walk-off will be well over two hours.  From the parking lot, the upper pitches and ridgeline become quite obvious (well, at least after you climb it).

Nuts, cams to #4, slings. No bolts, one piton on pitch 4.