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Peak Mountain 3

Unknown OW on far right

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Description

This a description for an unknown EXCELLENT wide one as far right on Cliffs of Insanity as you can go. It may be the last route on the right at the time of posting this.

Starts in a squeeze chimney (if you are small or on TR), If large or on lead you have to awkwardly climb size 8 OW / face for ten feet to top out a small block. After the block there is one move of size 3, then goes to size 4 through 5 until you reach a huge pod where a 6 just fits in the bottom. From here move into the pod and a life-saving beautiful size 3 handcrack appears on the left. climb the handcrack until it disappears and move through an overhanging fist to off-fist "roof" to the anchors. The route reminds me of a much wider spaghetti western for some reason, probably due to the accessory skinnier crack coming in at the perfect moment.

When I climbed this on 11/27/2021 it was sandy as hell and had a ton of golfball - baseball sized rocks we cleaned out of the handcrack. Still going to be some loose stuff, wear a helemt!! This will clean up beautifully and be a sought after wideboy after more traffic. A fantastic line get on it!!!!

Location

about 10-15 feet right of a two pitch finger crack

Protection

1 x 2", 3-4 x 3", 5 x 4", 2-3 x 5", 1 x 6"


Routes in Cliffs of Insanity


  1. 70
    Unknown OW on far right
    5.10+
    Trad