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The Marjumhorn
Description
P1: Start on steep black face climbing up into obvious shallow dihedral system, from the top of the shallow dihedral move slightly right and up to a nice ledge and belay. 5.11b 115ft
P2: Climb up the deceptive slab/face making devious moves on good rock to a good belay ledge. 5.10d/11a 90ft
P3: From belay shuffle right around the corner to the north side of the tower, e-z climbing brings you past a old belay and to a missing bolt, commit to the "easy" move above the missing bolt to a clip. From here the pitch becomes sharp and really cool, don't forget to get on that arete and peer around the corner then ramble up to the ?"sidewalk in the sky"? summit. 5.8+ 115ft.
Location
This is the lookers left of the 2 towers. Look for an obvious bolt line on the front of the tower.
Descent: Rap route
Protection
Gear: 16 quickdraws, an optional #4 camalot and a few slings. A 70 meter rope, or (2) 50 meter ropes.
Routes in Tower Ridge
- 1The Marjumhorn5.11bSport