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Peak Mountain 3

The Warbler

FA Braun and Barry (and Worrall?) FFA: Chris Belizzi et al, 5/82
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The top pitch is up there with the best finger splitters in the valley, and honestly a contender for thee best. fo real!

P1 : can either come in from the left or more directly up an initially moss filled crack. Gain a dirty ledge and walk up and right. If you didn't place too much it would be easy to keep going

P2 : Up the clean though at times awkward double crescent shaped flake (5.10). At it's end, make an exciting hand traverse left to a belay on top of a tree at two old bolts (can back up).

P3 : Beautiful splitter angling to the right. Being slightly slabby makes this seem much easier than most 11c down-valley finger cracks imo. New 2 bolt anchor on ledge.

Probably best to rap from the top to the ground with 2 ropes. Not sure if you can get off from the tree/old bolts with 1 rope. You'll need some tat if trying.

Location

The wall to the right of Fifi buttress (warbler buttress) is pretty clear at the base (from avalanches?). Keep heading right past a bunch of newer bolted routes until just back inside tree cover and you'll see it.

Protection

doubles to #3 with extra finger size.


Routes in Warbler Buttress


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    The Warbler
    5.11b
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