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Peak Mountain 3

Angry Birds

FA Kevin Wilkinson in 2010
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Tired of crimp ladders? Then Angry Birds is the route for you. This route offers great rock, multiple cruxes, varied movement, and requires more than crimping skills to succeed.

Forty feet of pumpy 5.11+ climbing leads to a V5 boulder problem on some small, spaced out pockets that lead to better holds at the left side of a huge shelf. Traverse right, sit down, and relax in the huge hueco.

When you are ready, pull over the roof on good holds, fight through a slopey, tiered shelf, and move right along some small crimps and sidepulls to reach a large, but very pumpy shelf. Lunge up to some features in a hueco, and power up to another series of large, flat holds. After shaking out, reach up to a good pocket, make a huge lateral move to best part of a sidepull feature, get stretched out grabbing a very incut crimp and dive for the a huge jug that is affectionately called the "toilet seat". Gather your wits, and make one more big move just below the anchors. Remember to save a little juice to clip the anchors!

Location

Two routes left of Kaleidescope.

Protection

Bolts and a two bolt anchor. A 60 meter route is required to get to the ground from the anchors.