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Peak Mountain 3

Full Boar

FA Brad Metz, Danielle Szabo, 2006
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Description

Climb the thin crack pulling past two pitons and a bulge(crux in my opinion) to a small ledge underneath the prominent crack.  Enjoy the classic splitter above with a fun bolt protected face move at the end!

In between the pitons there is a small flake/block that rattles a little but it seemed solid after more thorough testing on rappel.

Location

The obvious wide crack that splits the formation.

Protection

A single rack from tips to 5 with doubles in 3 and 4 would protect the route quite well. You could definitely fit in a 6 near the top of the wide crack or double up on the 5's for more security.

I had a #6(but no #5) and found it difficult to protect the middle section of the splitter. I managed to lodge a very overcammed #6 in midway before running it out to the horizontal crack above. I bet pushing a #5 would have been way more chill.

Bolted anchor with slings/cords and a locker. Our 60m rope barely reached with stretch but you could also use an intermediate rappel station off to the climbers left.


Routes in Value Village


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    Full Boar
    5.11b
    Trad