- Edit (TBD)
Description
Sometime by summer 2019, the huge tree at the right end of Seismic fell, and its absence cleared the start of an entirely different line about a yard or so right of Black Slabbath. So on July 19 I led Black Slabbath and set some directionals to facilitate TRing this "new" route.
On September 22, I went back and led it trad. Because the placements were sketchy and there were fewer than I thought there'd be, I will not describe them or recommend gear. Basically, I led it trad just in case I really did do the FA and someone came along and said it didn't count because it was on TR.
To anchor, I crossed over to the Black Slabbath anchors and placed a cam and a hex along the way to protect that short, easy traverse. While I have used that rock before for directionals and have rapped off such placements, that time I found that the rock there has gone from questionable to terrible, and I even trundled some large pieces. However, there is still okay rock if you look for it.
If there is a party on BS, you will need to go up into the brush to find solid trees for anchors; the rock around the topout is not sufficient for building a safe anchor. You can TR this off the BS anchors, but a fall will mean a big swing left, possibly crashing into a climber or rope on Die Easy just left of BS. So basically don't climb this route unless DE and BS are unoccupied or you are willing and equipped to lead the route and then crash through brush.
My 5.6 is based on not using the fallen tree to start and on pulling onto the ledge just above where the anchors likely would be were this a sport route. Otherwise, this is maybe 5.4.
As to the name-- there has been a recent fervor in the Austin climbing community to rename "offensive" route names. My name for the route is a poke in their collective woke eyes. And for the record, I am not a Trump voter; I just can't stand the woke/PC people.
It will take you less time to climb this route than it took you to read about it! Enjoy!
Location
Start a few feet right of the last bolted route on the right end of Seismic Wall.
Protection
There is no need to bolt this route; the likely location of the anchors would make it really short, and it can be led trad or toproped off the Black Slabbath anchors with or without directionals.
Routes in Seismic Wall A.K.A. Maggie's Wall
- 35Snowtards5.6Tr · Trad