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Peak Mountain 3

The Road to Mecca

FA John Glime, Paul Ross (Alt Leads) Sept 29, 2007
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The climb was named The Road to Mecca as the route is very holy!. Starts about the same level as the start to Death by Chocolate but at the bottom of the slot canyon at the top pool.Those parties that have enjoyed the climb "1000'of Fun" will find this easy mountaineering type climb has a similar atmosphere and great views from its summit.

(P1.Follow the slanting brown dyke on the right of the pool towards the holes.Double anchors.200'5.5.

(P2. Up to the right and gain the long road of holes,follow to double anchors. 200' 5.3.

(P3. Continue the holy way to double anchors. 200'5.3.

(P4. Continue the pilgrimage to double anchors.200'5.3.Straight very holey slab, cross the big crack and up to an ledge/alcove just below the summit.200'5.0. Scramble 60' to summit and register in cairn.

Descent...It is advisable to down climb the very easy last pitch as pulling ropes down this very rough slab would be difficult. From the anchors top of pitch 4 rap the route.

Location

One goes up the same slot canyon as for "Death by Chocolate"If the lower pools have water (sometimes about waist deep)and one has a fear of water there is an alternative via the one pitch "Aquaphobia" 5.4/5.It also brings one past the awkward little groove.If dry the canyon approach is the easiest to find.Alternative:- At the very entrance of the slot canyon on the north side scramble up the narrow bush filled gully .continue and look out for a ramp leading back left then right and down climb an easy crack for 15 feet, then continue up the terrace to find double rap anchors.100' rap back into the canyon and easy walk to the climbs: the climb back out up the rappel line,this is "Aquaphobia" 5.4/5!

Protection

Take a small rack and slings, mainly for the first pitch or when ever. Two 60m ropes.