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Description
A motley of cruxes pepper this classic route, but it's mainly defined by its sustained, deviously circuitous character. You get everything - a tricky overhanging deadpoint (or trickier static), a thin and technical crux, a sustained finish, and a great view at the top. For such a large crag, smith is heavy on great 12's, 13's and 14's, and relatively short on world class bolted elevens. Of the (two or three) handfuls that qualify, this is absolutely one of the best.
Location
On the "other" side of cocaine gully, perhaps 75 yards uphill from Vomit Launch. Look for an ugly black streaked wall and bolted crack; left of this wall, you'll find a well chalked, overhanging route: Crack Babies. Bloodshot is a just downhill (with a route in between), and starts on a solid 5.easyish ramp angling left.
Protection
roughly ten bolts
Routes in (f) Cocaine Gully
- 5Bloodshot5.11cSport