- Edit (TBD)
Description
Pitch 1. 5.10+, 60m Start on ramp 30 up hill from 3 Pines. 20 to 1st bolt. At 3rd bolt, move to flakes. 5 bolt has no hanger. Sling with wire nut. Move left. Small runouts through the 6th, 7th, 8th. Optional #1tcu. Move right onto slab staying right through 9th & 10th. Traverse right on sidepulls through 11th. Optional #3tcu before mantle. Dont fall here. Really. Clip bolt then climb corner. Optional #3tcu. Last bolt on top of block. Move left to anchor.
Pitch 2, 5.6, 25m Reverse last moves. Step across gap. Climb up & right through easy chimney. Clip bolt on face then move right onto face. Small gear on face plus #3cam Climb up & right to ledges. Bolt & gear anchor.
Pitch 3, 5.9, 60m Move up & right around big roof. Pull through smaller roofs. 3 bolts. Runout through pumpkin patch with 1 bolt to large ledge (5.4) Climb dihedral with 4 bolts. Step out of corner to slab. Great climbing. Then final moves to ledge.
Location
This route is on the Southeast face of the West Ear. The wall has a large green headwall. Start on ramp 30 up hill from 3 Pines. 60m rappel to the right of pitch 3. Bring 2nd rope.
Protection
Gear: 1 set of cams to 3. 1 wire for 5th bolt. 1st, 4th & 7th bolts were later added on pitch 1. Feel free to skip them. 12 (22) runners + Draws. 60m rappel to the right of pitch 3. Bring 2nd rope.
Routes in Rabbit Ears (Rogue)
- 1Wandering Soul5.10+Sport · Trad