Modern Direct

From the pillar where the regular route traverses left and off, continue up on bolts following the line of Charles Wallace the Party Rabbit. From a belay at 80-90 feet. CWtPR continues straight up while Modern Direct takes a slanting line to the apex of the headwall.

This route has either gear or a bolt every 10-15 feet. Stopper and small cam placements were excavated from the discontinuous cracks in the wall, but bolts were placed whenever the cracks run out for any distance. It is not a run out route, but you will need to spend some time placing gear to sew it up. Take a nut tool in case the cracks fill in again.

See topo main page.

Standard rack to 3", maybe some extra TCUs. Small/medium stoppers particularly useful.