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Peak Mountain 3

Sheer Lunacy

FA Ron Olevsky
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is located in the recess to the left of

Moonlight

and shares that route's first pitch and a half. It breaks out left at this point and follows an interesting line of corners, flakes and face climbing with a cool, steep jamming pitch as the finale.

This is a fun route that doesn't get as much traffic as the surrounding trade routes. Aiding the whole route would probably warrant a slightly harder rating (C2ish?). This route is best enjoyed as a long free climb with the occasional french-free move as opposed to climbing it "wall style". The aid is straight-forward and when it gets tricky a moderate free move will get you to the next bomber placement. The only pitch we aided in entirety was the crux 5.13 RP crack (there's a 12b variation that starts down and right) and the rest of the route went free or french-free. The bolts are like

Moonlight's

: fat and bomber.

Protection

Two each #.5 - #3 Camalot

One each. #3.5 and #4 Camalot

Double set of TCUs/Aliens (offset Aliens helpful)

One set of RPs (offset HBs helpful)

NO CAM HOOKS!!!