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Peak Mountain 3

Whackamole

FA Brian McCray, 2010
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Bouldery line that takes on the left side of a nasty-looking crack. A short boulder problem gets you to a no-hands stance in the scoop. From here, you can climb way right of the bolt (don't fall) and jam the gross, chossy, guano-filled crack. This is probably the only way to make the climb feel 11b. Alternatively, you can go straight up and ignore the crack using a combination of sidepulls and slimpers. This makes the climb feel tough for the grade but is nicer climbing with a safer fall. After passing the crack, there are still a couple more pumpy moves before the angle eases off and you trend leftward on sharper slab. Easy 5th-class run-out from the last bolt to anchor shared with Dig-Dug on the left.

Location

Last overhanging line on the left, easily recognizable as the line just left of the big, guano-filled crack above a scoop.

Protection

7 bolts, currently equipped with fixed draws