Brown Eye of Sauron

This is a wonderful, and slightly hidden line takes you into the depths of the cliff, tucked away inside a 200' mega chimney formed by a pillar/almost-tower. The third pitch ends in the shining eye near the top of the "tower." From down canyon it looks quite like the Eye of Sauron.

P1. 5.8+

Hand crack to chimney. Comfy belay ledge hidden inside the mega-chimney. Gear: .3-5", 115'

P2. 11-

Climb a beautiful wavy and continually variable 4-12" crack with thoughtful/tricky transitions between random sizes. After the mola, there's a five-foot section of hollow rock, but good jams. Hanging belay just right of a good ledge. I suppose you could move the belay left temporarily if needed, there is an anchor over there for an in-process project.  Gear: .4-12" (x2-3), 120'

3. 5.10+

Stem a wide tilted chimney until you are standing on top of the 300' tall pillar. Continue stemming until you can walk a dusty ledge and some stacked blocks to a bolted anchor on a great ledge inside the "eye." Gear: 7 bolts and .75", 80'

4. 5.10+

Head up a slabby dihedral. When the crack dies out, kick stem to the chimney and mantle past a bolt. Walk right to another dihedral crack and and an awkward mantle finish onto the tower. Gear: .4-4" and long slings. Bolted anchor (do not rap from here!) 50'

Descent:

Hop over from the tower onto the rim and walk left 20' to a bolted anchor in a nook. Rap 20' over the edge to an anchor for the current project mentioned earlier. From that anchor make 3 rappels with an 80m rope, hitting the first two belay stations. Skipping the rim anchor will very likely result in a stuck rope.

100' right of the Priapism Pillar. Look for a big deep chimney system.

.4-12" (x2)