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Peak Mountain 3

Juan De Fuca

FA Nick Flores
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This starts off easy and slabby and then turns into fun climb with small finger pockets with a few blank sections that can be cruxy. There are some great comfortable ledges to belay from if you climb the route in two pitches. Both pitches are 5.9+ and have a similar blank/tiny pocket crux section just below the anchors.

Location

The route is located just left of the Paintbrush Arete route on the black/slabby El Nino wall.

Protection

To climb the entire route in one go (it is 2 pitches) it would be 18 bolts to the top anchors. It is 8 bolts to the first set of chains (lower belay/rappel station) and then 9 bolts to the top chains.

You are able to climb this route with a 60 meter rope in one go, but you will need to rappel from the top chains, to the the lower chains, and then rappel off the route from there. If you have a 70 or 80 meter rope you can be lowered from the top chains to the lower chains and rappel off the route from there.