- Edit (TBD)
Description
This newish addition to the Fin is a great intro to Fin climbing. The first 3 pitches can be escaped from and rappelled to the base of harder south facing Fin routes, perhaps providing a warm up for those of us who need it.
P1- From the start of the scramble of the Fin there is a diorite face to the left (north). A pin and a few bolts will lead up to a dihedral. Ramble up this to a large shelf with a 2 bolt belay above. 9+/10a
P2- Slab up the wonderful scoop clipping bolts to a featured chimney, step right at the top to a 2 bolt belay and GREAT belay stance. 5.9
P3- Pad up perfect granite clipping a lone bolt to the anchor. 5.5 (from this anchor shuffle out right (up canyon) to a stance and a two bolt belay. You can run this together, but its a bit of route finding that may elude you on your first round.
P4- Slab up the impeccable Fin rock making a few committing moves and step left to the anchor and a nice shelf. 5.10b (it is possible to escape to the Fin Arete at bolt 2)
Alt- Climb up from belay and clip bolt out right and regain the Fin Arete
P5- Slab up passing a pin in the dihedral. Near the top you'll encounter featured rock and a bolt or two. Ramble up the low angle dihedral aiming for a 2 bolt belay and another great stance
P6- Climb up a thin crack to beautiful rock and wonderful movement. This pitch spits you out on the namesake of the feature of the entire formation. Don't forget to find a small TCU up on the arete, your second will thank you.
Descent: Standard Fin gully descent if topping out. It is possible to rap back to the base using two ropes from the 4th pitch.
Location
From where the standard pack ditching/ harness up flat spot is. Look up and spot a speckled diortie face. The first pitch starts here. Its about a 30 ft. scramble to the base.
The entire route was equipped ground up.
Protection
Rack to #3 camalot. 12 QD's, shoulder slings