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Peak Mountain 3

Dungeon Traverse

FA Kevin Capps, 2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The Dungeon Traverse is a juggy (or mostly juggy) voyage through the middle of The Dungeon. Begin on

Backdoor Man

, move right past the 5th bolt, and continue up above the anchor of

Sugar Mama

and through the bulge towards the top of the wall. The Dungeon Traverse is not a link-up of two routes but a separate, unique finish to

Backdoor Man's

start.

This route is a fun warm-up for the wall, with jugs for 95% of the climbing, aside from a short-lived crux moving through the short bulge higher on the route. The crux weighs in around 11+/12- and requires a strangely powerful layback sequence that finishes with a deadpoint to a jug.

New route alert: as you begin the initial traverse, please watch your step for small rocks or anything that might break off there. The route is still cleaning up.

Tree alert: there is a small tree growing out of the wall to the right of the crux. Let's try and respect the tree, and leave it in there. The tree also acts as a good separation barrier from The Dungeon Traverse's crux and the top of

If and Only If

. Staying just left of the tree keeps you on target for the crux of The Dungeon Traverse.

Location

Begin on

Backdoor Man

, and traverse right past the 5th bolt to the line of bolts above the anchor of

Sugar Mama

. Continue straight up above

Sugar Mama's

anchor and through the upper bulge to the top.

Protection

Bring 5 draws + 1 sling.