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Description
Harvey's Crack is the longest route on Scorpio Dome. The other big line is Carter Route. Both climbs are airy and committing.
Harvey's Crack is the first climb to the left on the main wall. It is the first big crack that draws your head to the sky, and you just get excited seeing the wall of sharp granite above you.
The base of the climb is in a gully and will most likely be shaded most of the day.
P1. Fight your way up the big offwidth for about 25 or 30 feet to the fist-size crack. Keep climbing for another 100 feet. Build a nice hanging belay. Up to this point, the climbing should be around 5.8. You should be close to the same height as the Orion anchors to your right, 130'.
P2. Continue working up the crack, now around 5.9, until you get to small ledge. Set up another hanging belay, 90 feet.
P3. Now the climbing get's hard. Work your way up the crack and then left towards a big looking boulder. Belay at the base of the boulder, 90 feet, 5.9+
P4. Climb up the crack to the summit of the boulder and belay, 40 or 50 feet, 5.10.
P5. Finish climbing up to the top of the dome in 5.8 terrain. This is a super long pitch, be mindful of the rope. Belay at the summit.
Location
This climb is about 100 yards to the right of
The Sting
. It is the first major crack on the main South Face. Walk down into the gully looking for the crack that leads to the summit.
From the summit, scramble down the ridge to the left, and go down the north face. It might be wise to stay tied in until you are well clear of major exposure.
Protection
Gear up to 7". It's offwidth in several sections, so extra #4 and #5 Camalots come in handy.
Routes in Scorpio Dome
- 6Harvey's Crack5.10aTrad