Lucky Charms

Ascends quartz filled rock to chains just left of the Crystal Cave. Entirely quartz sections are really interesting and unique, but the rock is very delicate and sketchy. I thought this route, like many Ron Cotman routes, was quite bagged- more like Leavenworth 5.9, and harder elsewhere in WA.

The route has consistent 15-20' runouts, and the consequences of a fall on any of them would be severe. There are at least 2 sections where you might as well be free soloing. I don't give 'R' ratings lightly.

5th bolt is kinda hidden, it's there, up and left. When you get to the white roof with black lip (see pic), STAY LOW below it. The (6th) bolt is at the far left end of the roof and is hard to see. This is one of the very dangerous runouts with both pendulum (on sharp rock) and ledge fall potential. The other is the 2nd bolt on frictionless quartz with a certain groundfall if you fell.

There are only two lines gaining Crystal Cave- one on the far left of the wall ("Lucky Charms", 5.8++R) and the other just below the right side of the cave, which is a mixed route ("Crystal Cave Route", 5.7).

9 bolts and nice bolted chain anchors.