- Edit (TBD)
Description
I struggled and somehow managed to climb this clean in sections with some hangdogging. Start with whatever you can find for a micro left hand, and grab the amazing arete with your right hand. Find believer moves once you pull on to the vertical face on nearly non-existent holds all the way to the cap rock. This has amazing, tenuous friction on great quality granite and is a wonderful feature in itself! This is a thin and technical testpiece and is an adventure just setting the TR.
Location
It ascends ultra thin holds on the southwest face and uses the right arete.
Protection
Scramble above the backside of the spire to the rocks adjacent to the spire's cap rock. Carefully step across, and do low 5th Class moves onto the top of the extremely exposed spire's small cap rock boulder, making sure you are solid reversing each move as climbing back is your only retreat from rigging the anchor. Use a long cordalette to sling deep under the backside of the caprock, hanging the masterpoint in a nice directional notch above the face.
Routes in The Stacks
- 3Locals Only5.12+Tr