- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is the route to the right of
Old Yellar
. It was originally bolted by the legendary Steve Hong and Pat Adams, much thanks!
The route is broken into 3 parts by 2 no hands rests. Once past the hollow and kinda chossy entry climbing, you get to a very techy, 12+ dihedral (I extended the 3rd draw to make it safer to clip). Once past the dihedral, you get to a ledge big enough you can walk around on, have a party, take a nap,
etc.
From here, you have a steep, undercling traverse on good holds eventually pulling a tricky bulge onto a hanging slab and another no hands rest. Finally you have reached the crux, probably a V6 on its own. Very sequential and perplexing, this took me some good sussing to actually figure out a method through the last 2 bolts. The route finishes with a jump to the finish jug on
Old Yellar
, what a stellar last move! It shares an anchor with
Old Yellar
and is a pain to clean while lowering. I would TR back up through the draws.
Overall, the route has subpar rock quality and is broken up by 2 no hands rests, but if you have already done
Old Yellar
, this is definitely worth getting on. It is very different.
Location
Start 10 feet to the right of
Old Yellar
.
Protection
Bolts with a sport anchor (shared with
Old Yellar
).
Routes in Old Yellar Dome
- 4The Scoundrel5.13bSport