- Edit (TBD)
Description
Back from the 90s, an old Austin classic is back in business. A classic Jeff Jackson route, only saw a handful of ascents in the 90s before falling into the obscurity of Urban Assault. Thanks to EvJohnson and Matt Glass this route has been rebolted with glue-ins (Oct. 2018) and outfitted with a few permadraws, and it's a true monster of a route. Route tops out on a triumphant ledge with an amazing view of the Greenbelt.
Thought of as Starfish's older brother, this sport route will test many weaknesses with its variety of moves, holds, and angles. Be it known that there are drilled/chipped holds on Plate Techtonics [sic, as named in Jefe's two Texas Limestone guidebooks], as there are on many UA routes. Also in keeping with UA fashion, many holds on this route get quite manky in wet weather, fortunately not quite as bad as on Starfish. Jeff Jackson thought this route ought to be restored, as the best, most historical route at Urban Assault.
Hardest route on the Greenbelt? For a long time the two hardest were Disneyland and Plate Techtonics, both at 5.13b. During the rebolting of this route, a few holds (jugs) broke off due to the choss of Urban Assault, and this route is significantly harder than it was, that being said, we're comfortable giving this 5.13+ now, until one of those team kids flashes it... Champagne n Reefer is also one of the hardest since that hold broke and there's some ridiculous move now, and I heard that some guy, who used to climb at Beehive a lot, sent it recently...
[Warning: lil beta here]: Split up into 3 sections (the face, the overhang, and the roof) with a crux each, you must excel in standing on tiny vert footholds, pocket pulling and crimping in a 45 degree overhang, and roof jug endurance. Save some energy for the topout too! Ugh, such a fun route.
List of known ascents: Jeff Jackson Paul Clark Jack Mileski Hank Caylor (twice) JLilStar (first ascent in 20+ years?)
Big ups to everyone who helped contribute to making this route a thing again, it's people like you that keep this community aLiVe
Location
Right side of the Left Oven. To the right of Mah Jong, to the left of Spelioantics.
Protection
11 bolts (many are unnecessary) and one-bolt anchor. 4th bolt glue-in will be chopped, it's been replaced by the 3rd. 5th bolt is a rusty, two-bolt low anchor with sport clip, typically not used for redpointing. 6th and 7th have permadraw. 8th has an old bolt and hanger next to it, will be removed. 9th has a nice climbtech permadraw. 10th is usually skipped for redpointing. There's an old bolt by the 11th bolt that has been eroded/pushed out of the wall about 1.5", we're gonna leave it there as a spectacle. Anchor is one bolt with a chain sport clip, lowering from here will put ya in the creek. All bolts are glue-ins unless otherwise noted.